The Puma ST is an outstanding hot-hatch that delivers what you'd expect and more in terms of performance, a fun-packed chassis - plus an extra bit of practicality over its Fiesta ST stablemate.
As good as the last ST is out-of-the-box, there's always room for improvement - here's our pick of the 5 best upgrades that every Puma ST owner should be thinking about.
As with all (ICE) Internal Combustion Engine-powered vehicles, the OE calibration is typically restricted by both emissions regulation and what the base engine team determine is the maximum safe power and torque output - based on their own internal sign-off limits.
The reality, is these limits were often put in place years, or even decades before and don't always test an engine, or the calibration performance in a true 'real world' scenario, as used by you (their tests are often much harsher than reality).
Whether the limiting factor is in-cylinder pressures, turbo speed, or something else, what you get from the forecourt is often a restricted form of what's reliably possible to extract - and this is very much the case with the 3-cylinder 1.5-litre Dragon engine found in the Puma ST.
Optimising the headway for performance, combined with an improvement in airflow (in the form of a high-flow panel filter, or induction kit), a genuine peak gain of 30bhp and 40Ftlb is available in stage 01 format and substantially more with other supporting software and hardware.
Regardless of the level of calibration you end up with, you should expect a more responsive vehicle that allows for safer overtaking, is generally more drivable day-to-day and of course, is a lot more fun when properly using the extra performance on road, or track.
Extra functionality can also be added into the base strategy (the governing structure of what can and can't be done within the software running on your ECU), to allow for things like more (or less) pops and bangs, sharper pedal maps, higher rpm limits and with devices like our FLASHlink (which uses a Bluetooth OBD adaptor and an app running your smartphone to make changes on-the-fly), you can also install anti-theft and specific fuel-based performance calibrations, plus a whole lot more besides.
The extra performance, character and ultimately overall enjoyment that can be instantly added to the base vehicle makes a stage 01 calibration our #1 essential upgrade.
As with all (ICE) Internal Combustion Engine-powered vehicles, the OE calibration is typically restricted by both emissions regulation and what the base engine team determine is the maximum safe power and torque output - based on their own internal sign-off limits.
The reality, is these limits were often put in place years, or even decades before and don't always test an engine, or the calibration performance in a true 'real world' scenario, as used by you (their tests are often much harsher than reality).
Whether the limiting factor is in-cylinder pressures, turbo speed, or something else, what you get from the forecourt is often a restricted form of what's reliably possible to extract - and this is very much the case with the 3-cylinder 1.5-litre Dragon engine found in the Puma ST.
Optimising the headway for performance, combined with an improvement in airflow (in the form of a high-flow panel filter, or induction kit), a genuine peak gain of 30bhp and 40Ftlb is available in stage 01 format and substantially more with other supporting software and hardware.
Regardless of the level of calibration you end up with, you should expect a more responsive vehicle that allows for safer overtaking, is generally more drivable day-to-day and of course, is a lot more fun when properly using the extra performance on road, or track.
Extra functionality can also be added into the base strategy (the governing structure of what can and can't be done within the software running on your ECU), to allow for things like more (or less) pops and bangs, sharper pedal maps, higher rpm limits and with devices like our FLASHlink (which uses a Bluetooth OBD adaptor and an app running your smartphone to make changes on-the-fly), you can also install anti-theft and specific fuel-based performance calibrations, plus a whole lot more besides.
The extra performance, character and ultimately overall enjoyment that can be instantly added to the base vehicle makes a stage 01 calibration our #1 essential upgrade.
Improving the efficiency of your air intake gives multiple improvements; from an enhanced intake sound, to a reduced pressure drop across the intake system - which means your engine (and turbo) doesn’t have to work so hard to make the same level of power and torque than it would otherwise.
A high-flow panel filter offers a cheap way of providing a small airflow improvement, induction noise boost and power gain. The airbox doesn’t even require tools to access the filter on the Puma ST, so this truly is a DIY swap that anyone can do themselves.
Once the airflow required for circa 250bhp / 375FtLb is exceeded, even an uprated panel filter option becomes a restriction that gets worse as the power and torque increases exponentially beyond that.
If you’re planning on upgrading to Stage 02 (or beyond) and you want to achieve and maintain the maximum power and torque output possible, you’ll need to look at upgrading to a high-flow induction kit.
Open cone setups can be prone to (power robbing) heatsoak, which is why rather than a simple filter fitted to an aluminium pipe, our induction kit solution offers a semi-enclosed airbox setup, complete with a carbon fibre filter housing and air-feed.
Although more difficult to design and manufacture, the carbon fibre material also boasts an inherent thermal enhancement that stops unwanted heat transfer, maintaining peak power for longer - and offering a unique induction noise that other kits can’t compete with.
Whichever induction kit you opt for, make sure it’s properly designed to provide optimal airflow, whilst preventing as much heatsoak as possible - so avoid an open filter simply fitted to a metal pipe, unless you're just after a noise increase and a loss of performance!
Improving the efficiency of your air intake gives multiple improvements; from an enhanced intake sound, to a reduced pressure drop across the intake system - which means your engine (and turbo) doesn’t have to work so hard to make the same level of power and torque than it would otherwise.
A high-flow panel filter offers a cheap way of providing a small airflow improvement, induction noise boost and power gain. The airbox doesn’t even require tools to access the filter on the Puma ST, so this truly is a DIY swap that anyone can do themselves.
Once the airflow required for circa 250bhp / 375FtLb is exceeded, even an uprated panel filter option becomes a restriction that gets worse as the power and torque increases exponentially beyond that.
If you’re planning on upgrading to Stage 02 (or beyond) and you want to achieve and maintain the maximum power and torque output possible, you’ll need to look at upgrading to a high-flow induction kit.
Open cone setups can be prone to (power robbing) heatsoak, which is why rather than a simple filter fitted to an aluminium pipe, our induction kit solution offers a semi-enclosed airbox setup, complete with a carbon fibre filter housing and air-feed.
Although more difficult to design and manufacture, the carbon fibre material also boasts an inherent thermal enhancement that stops unwanted heat transfer, maintaining peak power for longer - and offering a unique induction noise that other kits can’t compete with.
Whichever induction kit you opt for, make sure it’s properly designed to provide optimal airflow, whilst preventing as much heatsoak as possible - so avoid an open filter simply fitted to a metal pipe, unless you're just after a noise increase and a loss of performance!
The OE Puma ST shifter-throw isn’t bad, but it can feel a little long, especially when racing through the gears during some more spirited fast-road or track driving.
A whole host of shifter solutions are available, but almost without exception, they simply use a bolt-on aluminium block to the OE shifter arm in a bid to (often crudely) relocate the shifter cable‘s pin - and in-turn change the percentage reduction in shifter movement required to change gear.
At best you get a shorter throw at the sacrifice of a more notchy change - and at worst the cable end can pop off, or depending on the design, the bolt-on section can come apart - either way potentially leaving you unable to change gear!
Conversely, by redesigning the whole shift arm as we have, you can not only change the throw ratio without needing to raise the ball pin and shifter cable, you can also profile the mass and ensure you put the weight you want, exactly where you want it; so as well as the shorter throw, you can actually benefit from an enhanced sensation of the gear being pulled into place and a smoother gear change - the perfect balance!
The OE Puma ST shifter-throw isn’t bad, but it can feel a little long, especially when racing through the gears during some more spirited fast-road or track driving.
A whole host of shifter solutions are available, but almost without exception, they simply use a bolt-on aluminium block to the OE shifter arm in a bid to (often crudely) relocate the shifter cable‘s pin - and in-turn change the percentage reduction in shifter movement required to change gear.
At best you get a shorter throw at the sacrifice of a more notchy change - and at worst the cable end can pop off, or depending on the design, the bolt-on section can come apart - either way potentially leaving you unable to change gear!
Conversely, by redesigning the whole shift arm as we have, you can not only change the throw ratio without needing to raise the ball pin and shifter cable, you can also profile the mass and ensure you put the weight you want, exactly where you want it; so as well as the shorter throw, you can actually benefit from an enhanced sensation of the gear being pulled into place and a smoother gear change - the perfect balance!
With a 3-cylinder engine you're always going to be up against it when battling NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) but the standard lower mount is still on the soft side and an area that can benefit from upgrade.
In standard form - and made worse once you up the torque output, it's not uncommon to experience a rather nasty tramping / bounce sensation with the excessive engine movement.
Preventing the more extreme engine movement, whilst not restricting movement fully is a tough compromise, but with the correct attention when it comes to the shore hardness and design of the mount, a happy balance can be found where you get to put all the power down, without compromising on daily comfort.
Easy to install with access underneath, the lower pitch control mount is an affordable, noticeable upgrade for anyone who drives their Puma ST hard, or who has uprated the torque output over standard.
With a 3-cylinder engine you're always going to be up against it when battling NVH (Noise, Vibration and Harshness) but the standard lower mount is still on the soft side and an area that can benefit from upgrade.
In standard form - and made worse once you up the torque output, it's not uncommon to experience a rather nasty tramping / bounce sensation with the excessive engine movement.
Preventing the more extreme engine movement, whilst not restricting movement fully is a tough compromise, but with the correct attention when it comes to the shore hardness and design of the mount, a happy balance can be found where you get to put all the power down, without compromising on daily comfort.
Easy to install with access underneath, the lower pitch control mount is an affordable, noticeable upgrade for anyone who drives their Puma ST hard, or who has uprated the torque output over standard.
The brakes on the Puma ST are considerably better than those found on its Fiesta ST stablemate, but once power and torque is increased, they're still easy to overpower.
A good grooved disc and performance pad - combined with some braided brake lines go a long way to improving things, but a big brake kit provides a huge increase in stopping power and inspires confidence in the Puma ST' excellent chassis.
Our lightweight 6-piston forged brake upgrade utilises a forged monobloc for ultimate rigidity and reduction in caliper flex, meaning you have better pedal feel and together with the 355mm fully-floating disc/bell assembly, more stopping performance than you'd ever realistically need - they also look incredible!
The brakes on the Puma ST are considerably better than those found on its Fiesta ST stablemate, but once power and torque is increased, they're still easy to overpower.
A good grooved disc and performance pad - combined with some braided brake lines go a long way to improving things, but a big brake kit provides a huge increase in stopping power and inspires confidence in the Puma ST' excellent chassis.
Our lightweight 6-piston forged brake upgrade utilises a forged monobloc for ultimate rigidity and reduction in caliper flex, meaning you have better pedal feel and together with the 355mm fully-floating disc/bell assembly, more stopping performance than you'd ever realistically need - they also look incredible!
![09D HVF Carbon Induction Kit [Fiesta ST Mk8/8.5 | Puma ST]](http://09design.com/cdn/shop/files/mk8_fiesta_puma_st_carbon_induction_kit_e072bfa9-c265-40b1-af78-abb426fd8892.png?v=1741104642&width=80)
![09D FLASHlink Stage 01 [Puma ST]](http://09design.com/cdn/shop/files/Stage_01_-_Puma_ST.png?v=1764078802&width=80)
![09D Cast Quickshift Kit [Fiesta ST Mk8/8.5 | Focus ST Line 1.5 | Puma ST 1.5]](http://09design.com/cdn/shop/files/mk8_fiesta_st_puma_quickshift_arm.png?v=1737133284&width=80)
![09D Lower Pitch Control Mount [Fiesta ST Mk8.5 | Puma ST 1.5]](http://09design.com/cdn/shop/files/mk8_fiesta_st_roll_restrictor.png?v=1734118840&width=80)
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